Here is where we share our insights and advice on any subject related to car valeting or detailing.

William Wright William Wright

What’s the point of pre-washing a car and use the two-bucket method?

What’s the point of pre-washing a car and using the two-bucket method?

You may have wondered why we take the time to include not one but two pre-cleans in all of our packages, or seen people snow foaming as a first step and then using multiple buckets while washing a car but don’t know why. These are all steps to help prevent light damage to the paintwork.

The damage caused when a car has been poorly washed is visible when the light hits; hundreds of fine scratches (swirls) become visible, particularly on darker paints. If a car is continually washed poorly the paint will go entirely dull and lose all shine.

If you imagine, as a worst case scenario, washing a car with a dirty sponge, all the dirt will be on the surface of the sponge being dragged across the paint creating hundreds of fine scratches.

 

Why pre-wash a car?

The purpose of the pre-cleans is to remove most of the contaminants (dirt, sand, grit etc.) before having further contact with the car.

Both the pre-clean and snow foam help breakdown the contaminants, which are then simply jet washed  off. Once applied to the paint they also create a lubricant so that as the contaminants are removed there is even less chance of damage.

 

Is using two buckets worth it?

To further reduce the risk of damaging the paintwork it is a good idea to use two buckets (or three including a bucket for the wheels), one for the shampoo and a second with water to rinse the mitt between panels.

Once the contaminants have been removed with the pre-cleans, there is a chance that some will still remain. The two bucket wash safely removes everything else.

Using this process, especially with a natural mitt and grit guards, will assure a safe clean. Start with the mitt in the shampoo bucket then lightly wash one panel at a time, after completing a panel squeeze everything off the mitt onto the floor, then use the rinse bucket to wash off the mitt, then start the process again (back to the shampoo for the second panel and so on…)

Using a natural wool mitt encourages any contaminates deeper into the mitt and away from the surface that is in contact with the paint, to then be removed into the rinse bucket.

The Grit guards go at the bottom of both buckets and keep any contaminants that have made their way into the buckets to remain at the bottom and not come into contact with the mitt.

In summary, using all these methods ensure all contaminates are safely removed from the paint without re-introducing them to a new panel. Following these steps will significancy reduce the chances of any swirls in the paint.

Pre-Wash

  • Safely remove most contaminates before the contact wash using a mitt and two buckets. This can be a snow foam, pre-clean or both

2 Buckets with Grit guards

  • Using two buckets keeps the shampoo clean and contaminate free. The grit guards prevent any contaminants from re-entering the mitt.

Natural wool mitt

  • The natural wool mitt encourages any contaminants into the center and away from the surface that is in contact with the paint.

 

Can you fix existing damage caused from poorly washing?

If the damage has already been done and the car is covered in swirls, it is not too late. All swirls and most deeper scratches can all be corrected with a full detail and machine polish. More information can be found on our detailing page.

We often detail cars and then do all follow up professional valets to ensure the work does not all go to waste.

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William Wright William Wright

Is there any point washing your car in the rain?

Is there any point washing your car in the rain?

In England, especially coming into the winter, we are never short of rain. Now, more than ever, we are being asked; “Are you still coming if it rains?” and the answer is of course, YES, albeit within reason. In torrential rain we wouldn’t be able to provide something we are proud of so may have to postpone/rearrange your visit.

If you are an avid detailer or simply enjoy a Sunday washing your car you may have found that in many ways, it is actually easier to valet your car in the rain and far less frustrating then doing it in brilliant sunshine.

When attempting to valet in any kind of sun you will find that the water spots and streaks feel almost impossible to avoid as the products and water seem to dry as soon as it touches the paint. This issue is always exacerbated with darker cars, a frustration you will never have in the rain.

In most cases the rain will not make the car dirty again so rest assured your hard work will not be in vain.  Rain is a softer water with less minerals then found in tap water (the minerals in hard water are normally the cause of water spots) so will simply dry in time leaving little or no marks. On rare occasions this is not the case such as when we have any Saharan sand in the rain but this would be an issue no matter when you last washed your car.

 

What should you be aware of when valeting a car in the rain 

The rain actually helps rinse off any products that have been used as well as any ‘hard’ water but it does hide a lot of the dirt, making it a lot easier to miss spots on the car with your mitt.  To avoid this you have to methodically cover every inch of the car. When done properly you will avoid any of the dirty marks (normally triangles that have been missed) showing up when the sun comes out and the car is dry.

Another thing to be aware of, although it might sound obvious, is the electrical equipment you are using as when wet you can damage the equipment or worse be at risk of electrocution.

Finally, as pointless as it seems at the time, you should still dry the car to make absolutely sure that all the products and hard water is removed, this is much more important in lighter rain as it may not be rinsed completely.

 

What can’t you do in the rain?

Although giving your car a good clean is not only possible but easy, you should avoid applying any paint sealant/coating (wax or ceramic) whilst it is raining or with imminent rain on the way as these need to be applied to a dry surface and cure before exposure to moisture.

Having said that, when the rain seems endless there are still options to get your paintwork coated that don’t require a massive dry space. There are now a lot of brands that offer coatings that can be applied by simply spraying over the car with a foam gun (exactly the same as snow foam) and then rinsing, simple as that.  Whilst doing this in the rain may affect the longevity of the coating it is far better than nothing.

Machine polishing can be a struggle in heavier rain. This is due to the compounds become diluted on the wet paint, this not only decreases the cut (increasing the time required to correct the paint), prevents masking tape from sticking to the rubber trim, but also makes a lot more mess as it then tends to spray everywhere.

What valets will go ahead in the rain?

The list below is Wright Shine valets that can be done in the rain

  • Maintenance Valet

  • Full Valet

  • End of Lease Valet

  • Interior Valet

  • Exterior Valet

  • 5 Year Coating (as this always needs to be done inside so unaffected by weather)  

 

If there are showers throughout the day we may still be able to do our detailing packages as long as it is dry to finish as we always coat the fresh paintwork after polishing

  • Localised Polishing

  • Polish and Protect

  • Two-Stage Polish and Protect

  • Ultimate Polish and Protect

 

We would not be able to do any of the Ultimate Valets in the rain due to the coatings

  • Ultimate Valet

  • Ultimate Exterior

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William Wright William Wright

Wax, Ceramic or PPF – What’s the difference and are they worth it?

With more and more choice when it comes to paint protection it can be overwhelming. What’s the difference and is it worth it?

With more and more choice when it comes to paint protection it can be overwhelming. What’s the difference and is it worth it?

What’s the difference?

Wax, ceramic coatings and PPF (Paint Protection Film) all offer protection to the paintwork, hydrophobic qualities and when applied correctly will not cause any damage. The main difference between each is the application, level of protection and durability.

Both wax and ceramic coatings/sealants are thin clear coatings applied directly to the paintwork that creates an invisible barrier keeping the paintwork safe from UV and gives you more time when removing bugs and bird droppings before they eat into and damage the paint clear coat.

PPF (Paint Protection Film) on the other hand is a clear plastic ‘sheet’ that is applied to the paintwork protecting it from everything including light scratching, some even claim to prevent stone chips. This stands well above both the wax and ceramic coating when it comes to the level of protection and durability.

Is it worth it?

In short, yes!

We always recommend having your paintwork protected no matter your choice of protection. Not only does it protect the paint but it also helps your car stay cleaner for longer as well as easing the removal of any dirt or contaminates when it is next washed.

The Wax is by far the cheapest and easiest to apply but only lasting up to 3 months it offers the lowest durability. It is however a strong favorite with people who work on their own cars as it does not require any specialist equipment or skill.

Ceramic coatings are newer to the market and offer deeper levels of protection over a wax. The coatings are also far more durable, ranging from 6 months to around 5 years. It is however more expensive and needs to be applied with more care, this especially applies to the 5 year coatings. Ahead of applying our 5 year coating we give the entire car at least a 1 stage machine polish to ensure that no imperfections are sealed under the coating.

PPF coatings offer the greatest durability (normally up to 10 years) and un-matched protection but will always cost far more than the alternatives and the application is a very specialist task.

You can even have a mix of protection, some have PPF on the front of the car where most damage is caused and wax or ceramic coating everywhere else.

It all comes down to your requirements, the age of the car, how long you plan to keep the car for and how you want the car to look.

How can Wright Shine help?

The application process and ongoing maintenance of each coating weighs heavily on how well it will protect and its durability. When applied poorly or washed incorrectly after application all coatings will quickly loose their ability to protect (the PPF may even peel off).

At Wright Shine we are always applying, and managing wax and ceramic coatings on all types of cars and vans, we currently do not offer any PPF application but safely work with cars that have PPF.

With our ‘Ultimate Valet’ we carry out a paint decontamination (removing and iron fallout and tar) ahead of any application ensuring the car will always look its best and stay protected for as long as possible. You then have a choice of the 3 month (wax), 6 month (Hybrid wax and ceramic) or the 1 year (lite ceramic coating), we also always add a coating after any machine polishing we do.

You can also have the 5 year, 2 stage ceramic coating however this has to be done in a sealed environment so it the only offering that cannot be done by our mobile team (unless you have a clean garage big enough).

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William Wright William Wright

Can I still get my car valeted with a hose pipe ban?

Can I still get my car valeted with a hose pipe ban?

You probably will have already heard that Thames Water is threatening an imminent hose pipe ban. Whilst they are yet to release a date for the ban to commence, they state on their website;

Given this week’s very hot temperatures and a long-term forecast of more dry weather, we're preparing to bring in a hosepipe ban — officially called a temporary use ban — in the coming weeks.”*

But how will this effect me?

 

Can I have a Wright Shine Valet done at my address without breaking the rules?

Firstly, (and for us) most importantly Wright Shine will be able to perform all our usual valeting and detailing services due to the nature of our business makes us exempt from the ban.

So, if you already have a booking with Wright Shine, or you are planning to have one in the upcoming weeks, rest assured it will go ahead as usual and you can expect the same great results, we have built our reputation on.

 

Can I still wash my own car?

As an induvial however you will be unable to use a hose pipe to clean your private vehicle.

If you are still planning to do your own car valet you will still be able to fill your buckets with water (we would certainly still advise using the two-bucket method), or you can do a waterless wash with a quick detailer. We have added some tips below for valeting your own car with a hose pipe ban in place.

Tips to washing your own car within a hose pipe ban

  • Careful - Firstly, you must always be careful when cleaning your car without a pre clean (Citrus pre-wash and/or Snowfoam) as there will be contaminants all over the car that can get onto your wash mitt causing light scratching across your paintwork.

  • Waterless - If your car is not too dirty you can simply give each panel a wipe using a clean microfibre cloth alongside a Quick Detailer. This will remove any light marks (including water residue, dust and fingerprints) and leave your car gleaming

  • Two-Bucket - If your car is too dirty for a quick detailer (this will apply to most cars ahead of a wash) you will still be able to do a two-bucket wash within the current hose pipe ban rules (this may change when it is announced).

    • For this we would start with the dirtiest part of the car, the wheels. This will be done as usual, apply the wheel cleaner and brush clean. The difference comes when rinsing the wheel cleaner off. Instead of a hose/jet spray you will need to use a watering can.

    • After the wheels you can then clean the rest of the car. Using your wash mitt (avoid using a sponge as this will leave and contaminants (such as dust or grit) on the surface increasing the chances of damage to the paintwork whereas a mitt is designed to prevent this) very lightly to start, making sure to frequently and thoroughly rinse your mitt in the rinse bucket (ideally with a grit guard).

    • When it comes to rinsing the shampoo of the car, again you will be able to use a watering can, starting at the top in order to use a little water as possible.

    • After rinsing off any remaining shampoo, you can then dry the car with a chamois, microfibre towel or hot air, this will avoid the water spots and streaks that occur when the car dries naturally.

    • To finish dress the trim, tyres and clean the glass as usual.

 

I can, but… should I still wash my car with a water shortage?

Even at the best of times we would always recommend using as little water as possible when cleaning your car, and naturally during a water shortage that applies more than ever.

Whilst some water saving recommendations still include avoiding washing your car, when done in accordance with the rules and our tips above, a showroom finish can still be achieved with minimal water use.

Even if you don’t feel the need to wash the entire car through the ban, bird dropping and bugs should still be removed as soon as possible as when left this will eat into your coatings and paintwork causing damage that will need to be machine polished out (a process that will use a lot more water in the long run). This can be done with a microfibre and quick detailer or a bird dropping wipe.

 

If you have any further questions about washing your own car or would like to book Wright Shine to Valet or detail your car, just get in touch.

*https://www.thameswater.co.uk/help/water-restrictions

 
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